And suiting darling Peter Do presented his premier collection for Helmut Lang in Manhattan. After leading the brand for 13 years, Sarah Burton took her emotional final bow at Alexander McQueen, closing the show with Naomi Campbell in a stringy silver gown. Sabato De Sarno made his highly anticipated debut at Gucci, where he proposed a decidedly less outré, decidedly more Tom Ford-era aesthetic than his predecessor, Alessandro Michele. That’s not to say the shows fully lacked commotion. Take, for instance, the relaxed suiting and utilitarian belts at Proenza Schouler in New York the workwear-inspired jackets, jumpsuits and dresses from Prada, Ferragamo and Max Mara-the last of which presented sturdy pieces in exuberant hues the innovative gray suiting proposed by Stella McCartney, Loro Piana and Jil Sander and the little red dresses from the likes of Hermès, Bottega Veneta and Schiaparelli, all offering refreshing updates on the tired LBD. This sense of ease pervaded spring’s best shows and clothes, which shirked recent seasons’ gimmicks, flash and frippery and instead brought women feel-good outfits for everyday. Guests in attendance seemed visibly soothed, as if waiting to ascend into heaven, or at least lounging in a five-star spa. Their sterile Milan showspace had been made a sanctuary, with sunshine filtered through legions of white paper strips hung from the skylight. “IT’S NICE to feel calm sometimes,” said Luke Meier who, along with his wife, Lucie, designs Jil Sander. SPRING THINGS Among the top trends from the spring 2024 fashion shows was workwear-inspired fashion, like the outfits above.
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